Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Final design...

This is my final design, which I have created using my research on the other blog pages, boards, fabric samples and design developments. I wanted to experiment with the shapes and the different elements of the garment as the construction will consist of separate panels. I wanted to be more creative with blending colours together to show the art deco element to my theme and add different attachments to show the 1920s element to my theme as well as looking at the shape of my garment. I am only focusing on making the front of the garment as the main elements will be on the front and I want all the focus to be on the front not the back as the front will represent my research and my developed design work.

Image of final design...




As you can see, this design represents my research and findings and shows my developed designs and my research boards. It also shows that by developing each part of the garment has helped with my final design and being able to understand how to construct it and all the different elements needed.





Samples created to inform final design.

Design work and fabric samples...

These are the images of my design work, which I have created using all the research I have collected and read into as I found all the research from the 1920s very interesting, which helped a lot with my design work along with the images I have collected to do with the 1920s and also Art Deco. My design work represents my chosen theme well and also my research.

I have also created some fabric samples to inform my design work and give me ideas for my final piece and how I can manipulate them to fit into a garment to show both elements of my theme and also represent my research. The fabrics I have used is Silk and Cotton as these were the materials used in the 1920s. The colours are strong and they represent Art Deco as well as the 1920s due to the black and the gold being included as red and blue are strong colours and they were used a lot in art deco work as they are very strong and bold to make the work stand out.





This is a quick drawing I did to help with the silhouette of the garments and understand what the garments consisted of and how to create my own garment designs using this drawing as inspiration.



These are some of my designs. I have used all of my research and my boards to help with both the 1920s element and the art deco element due to the fact they consist of some structured elements and interesting shapes.

These are some more designs as I wanted to be more experimental and play around with layouts and the art deco element as I wanted to expend on the designs from the first page and try to manipulate them even more.

These are some more designs I have created and I have experimented more with both elements to my theme and I have focused on certain parts of the designs to expand on and draw more clearly to understand how they will be made and then constructed onto the garment itself.

 

These designs have been expanded on and show how I can use the structured art deco element to create unusual shapes and create different layouts and understand how I can use the same image/design to keep drawing form and manipulate it even more.



These designs have been inspired my boards and I have focused on the shaping and adding different elements to the garments to see how they would work with the fabrics, colours and shapes. I have also focused on certain elements.

 
All of these designs have been inspired by my boards and the fabrics I aim to use. The colours have also influenced my designs as they have helped with the placement and the layout of the attachments so I could experiment with them and keep them linking back to my research. Including the fabric samples helped with my design ideas as I was able to see how particular detailing was made.


Research boards...

These are the images of my research boards. I have completed my inspiration board, colour board, fabric board and shape and silhouette board. All of my boards show what i have been researching but what theme i have chosen and what it is about and what i am basing it on and all of my research areas and points to look at as guidance and inspiration for my design work, sampling and my final piece.


Inspiration board

 

This board is clear and shows my theme and intentions well as to the direction of my project. I also think the layout is strong and links to my chosen theme well.


Colour board


This board indicates my theme and the colours i will be using for my design work and final piece.


Fabric board



This is my fabric board and i link it is very clear as to what fabrics i will sample with and create my final piece with. They link to my theme well as these are the fabrics that were used on the garments in the 1920s. 


Shape and silhouette board

  
 This is my shape and silhouette board and it shows my theme and how i will link art deco into my design work and final garment. I also think the layout is strong.

Suffragettes...

Suffragettes were members of women’s suffrage (right to vote) movements in the late 19th and early 20th century in the United Kingdom and United States. It was a term for members of suffrage movements, whether radical or conservative, male or female. The women in the suffrage movement in the UK chained themselves to railings and set fires to mailboxes and the contents of the mailboxes. Many of the suffragettes were put in prison in the Holloway Prison in London, and were force-fed after going on a hunger strike.  Women in the UK were given the vote in 1918 if over 30 and meeting certain property qualifications, and in 1928 suffrage was extended to all women over the age of 21.

One woman, Emily Davison, died whilst trying to throw a suffragette banner over the King's horse on 5 June 1913.
 
 en.wikipedia.org 18/1/13

In the US, women over 21 were first allowed to vote in Wyoming from 1869. The suffrage was extended to women across the United States in time for the 1920 presidential election. Women over 21 were allowed to vote in New Zealand from 1893, in Australia from 1894, and in Canada from 1919.
Suffragettes were mostly women from upper– and middle-class backgrounds, frustrated by their social and economic situation and not having their own freedom as women as men had all the freedom and could do what they wanted and when they wanted. This lead to mass groupes of women fighting to show their anger and their rights as women.

It is said that:
“A few historians feel that some of the suffragettes' actions actually damaged their cause. The argument was that women should not get the vote because they were too emotional and could not think as logically as men; their violent and aggressive actions were used as evidence in support of this argument.”

 www.BBC.co.uk/archive/suffragettes 18/1/13

 www.BBC.co.uk/archive/suffragettes 18/1/13

In November 1918, the Eligibility of Women Act was passed, allowing women to be elected into Parliament. The Representation of the People Act 1928 extended the voting to all women over the age of 21, granting women the vote on the same terms as men.

From what i have researched about Suffragettes, I think it was outrageous how men and the government saw women and how they were excluded from everything. I never really knew about the Suffragette movement and what happened but now I have thoroughly researched it I now understand what it is and how horrible it must have been for the women. I also think it is awful how the were treated and how they had to go to extreme lengths to get the vote for women. I now know and understand that it was these women that got the vote for us today and how they fought hard to get the vote and be seen to have equal rights as men.

18/1/13 13:50pm

www.BBC.co.uk/archive/suffragettes

The Ascent Of Woman: A History of the Suffragette Movement by Melanie Phillips (4 Nov 2004)
The Suffragettes: In Pictures by Diane Atkinson (16 Aug 2010)
Votes For Women: The Virago Book of Suffragettes by Joyce Marlow (6 Sep 2001)


The great depression...

The Great Depression of 1920-21 was an sharp recession in the US, shortly after World War I. It lasted from January 1920 to July 1921. Following the end of the Depression of 1920–21, the Roaring Twenties brought a period of economic prosperity. A varied amount of factors have been said to contribute to the depression, which related to the economy following WWI. There was a Post-World War I recession, which some people thought was a wake up call for what was happening and what was going to happen but they never once thought that it would ever be so bad as what it was. It lasted for 18 months and people couldn’t do anything and they felt trapped due to the economy. The economy started to grow, though it had not yet completed all the adjustments in shifting from a wartime to a peacetime economy.

 en.wikipedia.org 18/1/13

 Factors that potentially caused the crisis included: the troops returning from the war which created a rise in the civilian labor force, a decline in labor union strife, and a shock in agricultural prices and also the expectations of deflation.
Adjusting from war time to peace time was a huge shock for the U.S. economy. Factories focused on war time production had to shut down their production. The recession that occurred in 1920, however, was also affected by the adjustments following the end of the war, particularly the increases and decreases in the number of soldiers.  
In the early 1920s, both prices and wages changed more quickly than today, and thus employers may have been quicker to offer reduced wages to returning troops, hence lowering their production costs, and lowering their prices.


en.wikipedia.org 18/1/13
 

 en.wikipedia.org 18/1/13

18/1/13 14.30pm

The Roaring Twenties and the Great Depression 1920-1940 (Graphic U.S. History) by Saddleback
The Great Depression and New Deal: A Very Short Introduction (Very Short Introductions) by Eric Rauchway (24 Apr 2008)
www.english.illinois.edu/maps/depression/depression.htm

Claridges...

Claridges is the famous and well known expensive hotel in London. For the rooms in claridges it can cost between £2,000 - £9,000 per night. They have a very high reputation and are always protecting it by hiring the best and most qualified staff and having the best decor as well as up to date technology. It a guest requests new layouts of their rooms and new paintwork as well as certain bathrooms suites they will replace it all just for that particular guest and then restore it back to its original furniture and paint work. They will put the room back to how it was before the guest arrived just in case the next guest doesn't like how the room has been changed as it is all about person tastes and experience. They also have the best chefs to cook for the guests such as Gordon Ramsay. All of the decor and the layout inside is Art Deco and people go in just to see it. This links to my project well and i found the decor beautiful and really stunning for the interior of a hotel.I learnt all this when the programme, Inside claridges was on BBC Two. It was very interesting to see how they look after the hotel and their guests and what they do with the money they charge for each room per night. I also found the Art Deco decor fascinating and it really brought the hotels distinctive character out.

Images of inside Claridges...

The Bathrooms


 The lobby


The bedrooms


The bathrooms

www.claridges.co.uk 18/1/13


18/1/13 13.45pm

Claridges: Within the Image by Gemma Levine and Maggie Koumi (7 Jun 2004)

www.claridges.co.uk

Bibis restaurant, Leeds...

Bibis restaurant is in Leeds near the cockpit bar just out of the tunnel. The restaurant decor and layout is Art Deco, which links to my theme well. I noticed it when I was passing on the way home and i found all the interesting decor beautiful. I liked all the interesting shapes and the rich others used, which link to my colour palette - black and gold. I liked how it had all been placed together and it would give me ideas for my design work, research and final piece as well as the photography and the displaying of it.

Images of Bibis restaurant...



www.bibisrestaurant.com 18/1/13

I wanted to look at Bibis restaurant as it has interesting shapes and it seems to play around with the layout of them, which links to all of my art deco research and how the placement can make the shapes stand out more and look more interesting. This extra research has helped with my design work and also my sampling for my final piece. It has given me inspiration for different shapes ad ideas for incorporating samples together to create interesting ideas and being more experimental to show both elements of my themes.

18/1/13 13:45pm

www.bibisrestaurant.com

Madeleine Vionnet...

Madeleine Vionnet was born on the 22nd June 1876 and died on the 2nd March 1975. She was a well-known and well-respected French fashion designer. She was named the "Queen of the bias cut" and "the architect among dressmakers", Vionnet is best known today for her elegant Grecian-style dresses and for introducing the bias cut to the fashion world.



Madeleine Vionnet by Pamela Golbin 18/1/13
In the 1920s Vionnet created the bias cut, a technique for cutting cloth diagonal to the grain of the fabric enabling it to cling to the body while moving with the wearer. She used the bias cut to create flattering looks, which she believed would help revolutionise women's clothing. She created designs that showed off a woman's natural shape. Her clothes were famous for accentuating the natural female form.



 
 Madeleine Vionnet by Pamela Golbin 18/1/13

She famously said: "when a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too."

Her clothing designs were very simple and involved a lengthy processes, including cutting, draping, and pinning fabric designs on to miniature dolls, before recreating them in chiffon, silk, or Moroccan crepe on life-size models. She used materials such as crêpe de chine satin to make her clothes; fabrics that were unusual in women's fashion of the 1920s and 30s.
 

In the 1920s and 1930s her clothing, took over haute couture in setting trends with her sensual gowns worn by such stars as Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo. Her vision of the female forms changed societies and the way women were seen and their duties. Although World War II forced her to close her fashion house in 1939, she took on the role of becoming a mentor to later designers and helping them understand the principles of elegance, movement, and style.

Her clothing has influenced many designers such as John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, and Issey Miyake.



fashion.telegraph.co.uk 18/1/13

18/1/13 12.00pm

Madeleine Vionnet by Issey Miyake and Betty Kirke (1 Nov 2012)
Vionnet (Fashion Memoir) by Lydia Kamitsis (24 Jun 1996)
Madeleine Vionnet by Pamela Golbin (1 Jun 2009)

Artists and designers in the 1920s period...

These particular artists and designers where covered in a lecture and as they linked to my theme I thought i would do further research on them to help with my theme and design work.

Jean Dunand...

Jean Dunand was born in 1877 and died in 1942. He was a Swiss lacquer, copper manufacturer sculptor and interior designer. It is said that he is considered the greatest and most famous artist of the Art Deco period and his work is well recognisable and has inspired many to take up the same work and hobbies and create work similar to his by using the same techniques.
At a young age he wanted to study sculpture and he later won several prizes for his work. Quite a few years later he began working with Seizo Sugawara, a Japanese laquerist who had recently immigrated to France, to learned the seemingly lost technique of lacquer.

Jean Dunand: His Life and Works by Felix Marcilhac 18/1/13

Ferdinand Preiss... 
Johann Philipp Ferdinand Preiss was born on the 13th February 1882 and died in 1943. He was a famous German sculpture and his work has been seen all over the work and has been very inspirational for new and emerging artists and designers.
From the year 1910, he grew to specialize in limited addition Art Deco cabinet sculptures that used only bronze with ivory on plinths of onyx and marble. This was later what the firm he worked for started to do. He designed almost everything for the firm, which helped get his name known as well as his career and work. His workshop was in Berlin, which was housing the stock of samples was later burnt down due to a bomb attack after World War I. This happened shortly after he had died.
His work is greatly valued by modern collectors.




Ferdinand Preiss: Art Deco Sculptor 18/1/13

George Coles...

George Coles was born in 1884 and died 1963. He was a famous and well-known English architect and was an Art Deco designer, which is how he made his name. He was a designer for Art Deco-style cinema theatres between the 1920s and 30s.  He was the architect of the British home stores (BHS).
His art deco design work included the Gaumont State Cinema in Kilburn, several odeons. He was also involved in the design of The People’s Palace in 1936, which became the Queen Mary College, University of London.




 www.cyberhymnal.org/bio/c/o/l/coles_g.htm 18/1/13

Eileen Gray...

Kathleen Eileen Moray Gray was born on the 9th August 1878 and died on the 31st October 1976. She was an Irish furniture designer, architect and a pioneer of the modern movement in architecture and design. She was born into an aristocratic family. Her Farther encouraged her love and interest for art and paintings and to help with her interest and studies he took her on various painting tours on Italy and Switzerland, which encouraged her independent spirit and made her interest become more of a career, which she wanted to pursue.
She became interested in lacquer work and she came across a lacquer repair shop in Soho, London, where she asked the shop owner whether he could show her the fundamentals of lacquer work.

She continued to work on new projects but didn’t carry on with much of her design industry as she forgot all about it.  In 1968, a complimentary magazine article drew attention to her accomplishments, which shows her work is still recognisable and that people are still interested in it. She also inspired other people to create work in the style she did, as it looked very unusual and captivating. Her work was also seen by designers and they often incorporated parts of it and sometimes used it all to showcase their own work against something so unusual. Gray's 'Le Destin' screen was featured in the sale and went for $36,000. Collectors entered the chase, and Yves Saint Laurent's interest completed her image and what she was known for.

Eileen Gray: Her Life and Work by Peter Adam 18/1/13

18/1/13 11.50am

Jean Dunand: His Life and Works by Felix Marcilhac (Sep 1991)
Jean Dunand by Greenberg (26 Nov 1986)

Ferdinand Preiss: Art Deco Sculptor - The Fire and the Flame by Alberto Shayo (22 Feb 2005)

www.cyberhymnal.org/bio/c/o/l/coles_g.htm

Eileen Gray: Her Life and Work by Peter Adam (15 Jun 2009)
Eileen Gray by Caroline Constant (1 Oct 2007)